Thursday, July 20, 2017

GOD(S) AND CHAOS - Part I

My oldest grandson, Cameron Young, recently gave the following talk to the Westside Unitarian Universalist Church in Fort Worth, Texas, where he is currently the Director of Lifespan Religious Education. He told of his trip to India, along with photos he took while there. As this is rather lengthy, I decided to post it in two parts. 

I always thought that Cameron would be a professional performer (he was a voice major at LSU, and sings opera), but not only does he have the ability to present a good sermon from time to time at his church, he shows a remarkable gift for writing as well! Proud grandmother speaks.

GOD(S) AND CHAOS
by Cameron Young

   Those of us in the western world tend to view what is spiritual and what is holy to be only synonymous with what is tranquil and calm. Wealthy westerners spend thousands of dollars going on spiritual retreats being drawn in by taglines such as “find your inner peace,” “align your chakras,” “heighten your cosmic vibrations,” and a classic “embrace the power of positive thinking!” Not to negate the validity of eastern religious practice, especially yoga and meditation, which provide immense benefits for body and mind, but since the new age movement of the 1960s, we’ve seen the emergence of bastardized eastern practice that has drawn in thousands. The fundamental difference between the true practices and the new practices is that, while eastern spirituality encourages you to embrace discomfort and learn eventually to accept it, the latter teaches to spiritually bypass any feelings of unease and that only the positive feelings are valid. 
   Having visited India for a month, I quickly realized there was a market for this. There were these very expensive Yogic retreats offered to Europeans and some Americans where people got to come to India, yet conveniently got to avoid the Indian people and cultural climate. The noise. The smells. The poverty. The “chaos.” Not only is that antithetical to those philosophies, but that mindset is also racist and classist. Upon leaving for India, I certainly had an over-romanticized vision of it, and though I might’ve been looking for some semblance of self-realization, my motives were quite different from the ones previously stated. I recognized the spiritual validity of being out of one’s comfort zone.
   I left the U.S. thinking that I had left most of my ego behind. I’ve never been too attached to material possessions, in the spirit of our second UU (Unitarian Universalist) principle, I’ve made it a practice to have open and compassionate relations with others, and I like to think my spiritual practice enables me to approach most situations calmly and objectively. The moment I set foot in Mumbai, I became painfully aware of how wealthy I was in that context. People, mostly in desperation, wanted my money, and so I became a target for some to scam, rip off, or simply pester. Despite having plenty of it (everything was so inexpensive), I found myself clinging to my money and possessions in a way I never had before. While some level of a defensive disposition is healthy in such an environment, my hypervigilance coupled with jet lag was manifesting in paranoia. My adventuring was often coupled with sensory overload and a constant need to look over my shoulder. 
    My third night in Mumbai, I ventured to Chowpatty beach, because the beach is a relaxing and tranquil place, right? I stuck out like a sore thumb.



 
 As a practicing Zen Buddhist, I’ve become quite familiar with the writings of Shinryu Suzuki, who’s often accredited as father of the American Zen movement. In his most famous work, Zen Mind Beginner’s Mind, Suzuki speaks of small mind vs. big mind, or little “I” vs. big “I.” “We create airplanes and highways,” he writes “And when we repeat ‘I create, I create, I create’ soon we forget who is the actual ‘I’ which creates the various things; we soon forget about God. This is the danger in human culture.” He goes on to write “But because we do forget who is doing the creating and the reason for the creation, we become attached to the material or the exchange value.”
   Suzuku writes of the Buddhist understanding of God, which can be simply understood as the oneness of everything, or as UUs like to say, the interconnected web of all existence. Suzuki is implying that the danger in human thought is the illusion of self, the illusion of attachment, and the illusion of creation. Anything we perceive as being created by us, we’re really just rearranging matter already manifested in nature. And when we think this way, we become attached to these material things, we fear the loss of those attachments, and thus emerges the little “I” or the ego that separates us from everything.
   Welcome to my existential crisis upon entering India. My sudden anxiety and possessiveness over my pocketbook, my phone, my laptop, and other belongings, at least at first, constantly interfered with my enjoyment of an otherwise grand adventure.
   Though this realization of the dichotomy between the egoic little self, and the higher, universal self is fundamental to Buddhism, it’s by no means unique to it. The Transcendentalists of young America, Emerson, Thoreau, Whitman, Channing, all Unitarians at one point or another, were perhaps the ones in the west who most eloquently articulated this truth. Transcendentalism went as far as to say that institutions and illusion of order actually corrupted the purity of the individual, constantly citing the validity of a human’s subjective intuition. 
   We heard earlier a reading from Walt Whitman’s Song of Myself. He goes on to write “I exist as I am, that is enough, if no other in the world be aware, I sit content, and if each and all be aware, I sit content.” Here, Whitman is implying that our fundamental purpose is our subjective experience. What emotions we feel, what thoughts we perceive, and how we internalize those experiences trumps anything that happens extrinsically, including the materials and institutions we create.
   So what was the primary spiritual philosophy that influenced the Transcendentalists and early American Unitarians? You might be surprised that, it was the Hindu religions of India, which similarly gave birth to Buddhism. Many of them were actually fascinated with Hinduism, and though they may not have interpreted it with complete accuracy, some of its core tenets dramatically informed their spiritual outlook. 
   Ralph Waldo Emerson writes about the relationship in Hinduism between Atman (the individual self) and Paramatman (the eternal self, where individuality vanishes into selflessness). Emerson calls it the over-soul, and that it must be reunited with the individual self to, in his words, “recover that unity which had been clouded and obscured by the magical illusions of reality.” This is important for two reasons: 1) is the relationship between little “I” and big “I” that I’ve cited before, and 2) Emerson is citing the qualities of Hinduism that imply that reality is inherently spiritual and that spirituality is not about escaping reality. This leads me back to my original subject line, “God(s) and Chaos.”
   Western Judeo-Christian theology tends to have a dualistic approach to chaos vs. order, and perceives that order is superior, whereas eastern theology, originating in Hinduism, has a more non-dualistic approach in which chaos and order are two sides of the same coin, thus cosmic inevitabilities. You can see these differing philosophies reflected in our culture. When this American first set foot in Mumbai, it seemed as though a place with no order.
   I’ve shown you the picture on the beach. Another example is the traffic laws - there are none. The driving in India is every person for themselves, and every inch of space on the rode is claimable. Drivers will get to within an inch of hitting the next car. Upon further examination, however, you realize how skilled the drivers are and that major accidents are not more ample than they are in the west. I would see some of my taxi and rickshaw drivers accomplish feats with their driving that I could only dream of doing. Another example of order within chaos is the Dabbawala system of Mumbai, a 125-year old lunch delivery service that navigates the streets of Mumbai, appears to be chaotic and random, but is actually incredibly sophisticated. 
   As I’d indicated previously, this anxiety I felt from culture shock, lack of amenities, and the chaotic activity was resulting in a breakdown of ego for me, but there were several remarkable people and extraordinary experiences I had along the way that helped me to once again see beyond that little self. That Atman.
   First, I met Muhammad Ali, a Muslim rug salesman in the town of Hampi. We had chai together every evening, on my way back to my guest house. He had a gentle spirit, and a great sense of humor, often making fun of the way I smoked and coughed on his cigarettes. 
   Muslims make up a quarter of the population of India yet have none of the institutional power there. They’re highly marginalized, but this man did not have resentment towards those of different faiths, but rather an earnestness to learn about them. He seemed to effortlessly get along with the Hindus, Buddhists and Christians alike, all of which have substantial numbers there. One of the most beautiful aspects of India is its religious pluralism. My last night in Hampi, I had just been pick-pocketed - only petty cash. I told him what happened and he put his hand on my shoulder and said, “If someone in this country steals from you, it’s because they are desperate.”
(To be continued)

Wednesday, July 12, 2017

I've been thinking...

and my thinking sometimes gets me in trouble. For several months now my thinking has been dragging me down. That's not a recipe for a happy life. I like to think (like many of us do) that I am a person of integrity. Among my personal thoughts on integrity is the idea that one should not judge others. This, of course, comes from my Protestant background. When analyzed, I realized that I have been guilty of judging others - some harshly. In particular, the "others" are the current government, and especially the President and his cronies. As I have written many times condemning their actions and agenda, I am left feeling sad. It took a lot of soul-searching to pinpoint the reason. Violating one's own convictions should create at least some semblance of guilt, thus, my sadness.

"Knowing that we can change our thoughts releases us from the hold any negative idea or opinion has over us." Course in Miracles

This morning I had an "aha" moment when a scripture of the New Testament popped into my mind. It's always been easy for me to remember the "shalt nots", consequently, "thou shalt not judge lest ye be judged" frequently flashes before me. (I admit I have lots for which to be judged.) This morning's "aha" was what a good friend of mine mentioned to me when I was sharing my guilt with him. He reminded me of the following scripture. In John 7:24, Jesus said, "Do not judge according to appearance, but judge with righteous judgment". (Emphasis mine.) Whew! I now feel somewhat vindicated in my indictments of politicians behaving badly. Now I have only to work on my tendency to judge others besides politicians! Unless, of course, I'm using righteous judgment. (Hmmmm)

"Integrity means following your moral or ethical convictions and doing the right thing in all circumstances, even if no one is watching you. Having integrity means you are true to yourself and would do nothing that demeans or dishonors you." (yourdictionary.com)  I love their examples of everyday integrity found here: Examples of Integrity

Related image

Okay, then, now some righteous judgment.

"Americans have always assumed, rightfully so, that every President we elect begins with and maintains a level of integrity, civility, dignity and respect. We assume he or she won’t insult another candidate’s looks or refer to a journalist on her period, demean a war hero, brag they could shoot someone on 5th avenue and still get votes, make fun of a disabled person or lie as a matter of course."..."Only when his most loyal stand up and tell the Emperor he’s not wearing any clothes will we restore the dignity and integrity that’s fast eroding inside the Oval Office." (Laura G. Owens, Huffington Post)


Image result for emperor's clothes

To those of you reading this who, perhaps thinking we needed a drastic change in Washington - which we did, voted for our current president, it is NOW time to let him know your feelings about the lack of "integrity, civility, dignity, and respect" he continues to display. While you're at it, let your congressional representatives know you would also favor impeachment if things don't change.

Please don't judge me too harshly for this post. After all, I used a lot of other folks' words and pictures. Oh, no! Please don't tell me that is wrong. I've tried to give them all credit!

Peace, love, and good thoughts,
Marilyn

P.S.
Today is a special day for a very special grandson:

TRAVIS

Monday, June 26, 2017

ALL WE NEED IS LOVE

From time to time I am able to sweet talk someone into submitting something for this blog. With very little arm twisting, a friend from my high school days shared some of her poetry with me. We are approaching a 60th class reunion, and some of us have reconnected after all these years. As we share our stories, we gain a renewed understanding of our friends from long ago. This is revealing of my friend's warm and loving personality. I am happy to have her as a friend.


The Art of Friendship
Martha Northington, 2002

"Friendship is human creativity: a dance, a painting, a violin concerto, a poem.
It must be practiced again and again, and it reveals new meanings with each performance.

The finding and holding of friends is a courtship of eyes and voices; of ideas and commonalities; of listening and understanding; and of both giving and receiving.

It is the gift of laughter and joy without derision or shaming. Honesty must have a place in the courtship--a compassionate honesty without hurt or annihilation.

A strong friend offers safety and trust, a place to flourish and to rest. The friend waits until the other gains strength to continue.

The nurturing of friendship allows no interruptions and is sustained by the sharing of happy events and private sorrows. The human spirit soars when good friends accompany and falls from the heights if left alone for too long.

Friends reach out to one another and give freely of themselves from their minds and hearts. 

Good friends become artists of life."

(...at any age)

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If any of you watched television yesterday you may have heard it was 50 years ago that the Beatles introduced their song, All You Need is Love. We need this more today than we did 50 years ago. Friendship, love, and beautiful music will help heal our world. Don't you think so?




Until next time, may you have all the love you need,

Marilyn

Thursday, June 22, 2017

MAKING TIME


I have had a hard time finding time for this blog. I've been immersed, first, in genealogical research; and second, I've been helping former classmates update a mailing list prior to the 60th Class Reunion coming up this fall. In between, I post on our BHS Class of '57 blog. So much of the news I've had to share in recent months is, sadly enough, in the form of ill health, goodbyes, and obituaries. 

A former classmate I frequently correspond with, C. Denson Hill, PhD (affectionately known as Denny), is a professor of mathematics at Stony Brook University, but spends his off time in Warsaw, where he owns a couple of flats, and Berlin, where he is currently. When I sent him some recent updates on our former classmates, he questioned me about how many of the 1957 graduating class have died. I sent him the number, and this is his response:

"Almost exactly 50% are gone.

It is interesting, because I read somewhere about some research on life span in which there was the finding that people tend to die in two groups: the first group expires somewhere in their late 60's or early 70's. But if you make it past that, then you are in the second group, and have a good chance to get to 90 or more (I don't remember the exact numbers, but the point is that the deaths are not uniformly distributed, but have two quite distinct clumps, with significant spacing between them)."

I responded that I'm not certain I want to live to be in my 90s. Oddly enough, from my family research, there were a lot of my relatives who lived long lives until the 20th century. Since that time, those who have managed to live until their 80s and 90s, with a few exceptions, did so with waning mental capacities and very poor health. To me, that says that modern medical science (and easier lifestyles) have helped to increase life expectancy in the United States until this century. We now rank 26th, lower than most other higher income countries. South Korea is predicted to be the place to live when their life expectancy soars to age 90+ by 2030. (Of course, that's if North Korea doesn't start a war with them first.) They are currently the total opposite of the United States in life expectancy. 

"The research - undertaken by the World Health Organization and Imperial College London - described how the U.S. has the highest child and maternal mortality, homicide rate, and body-mass index of any high-income country.U.S. Life Expectancy

I believe that among the many reasons for the reversal we are seeing has a lot to do with pharmaceuticals focusing more on relieving pain in the form of opiods, and other high dollar drugs, such as the newer cancer treatment drugs that could save lives if one could afford the thousands of dollars a month they cost. Even the EpiPens, which are so essential for those with severe allergic reactions, were increased in price six fold by 2016. The big pharma not only charge outrageous prices, but also encourage doctors to prescribe them. I'm pretty sure the doctors get some kind of "compensation" for this practice. 
I had minor nerve surgery on my arm a few years back. The doctor prescribed "pain medication". It was a drug I had never heard of. (I'm strictly an aspirin kind of gal!). It was for 60 tablets of hydrocodone. That in itself scared me. How long did he expect me to be in pain? I took one tablet when my son brought me home from the day surgery. I lay on the sofa and dozed. I felt so disoriented when I awakened that I never took another tablet. The bottle stayed (hidden) in my bathroom until this past spring a friend took it and other old, outdated medicines, and turned them in for disposal. Some law enforcement agencies do this annually, as well as some Walgreen's. Of course, one must mark out the name, prescription number, and any other identifying information before doing so. Outdated drugs of any kind could be deadly if they fell into the wrong hands. And we certainly don't want them to get into our water supply by tossing them down the drain or in the garbage. If all doctors so freely prescribe such drugs for pain, it is no wonder we have such an opiod epidemic. That certainly contributes to the lower life expectancy rate.

The increasing income inequality, loss of jobs due to technology, and in particular the lack of insurance and quality healthcare, especially to the lower income class, has been responsible for not only a rise in poor health and death, but also for the rise in suicides in the U.S. 
Image result for miracles
If more people were made aware of what is happening to the health of our country, I believe there would be an outcry at the Congressional refusal to pass legislation for universal healthcare, or at least make the "new" affordable healthcare act they are supposedly working on, something that will not take away insurance to the number of the poor who now receive it. It may take a miracle.
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On a lighter note, my son Matthew and his family have been on the Texas Gulf since last weekend. They went to North Padre Island for a golf tournament grandson Travis participated in. Deciding to stay a week for a family vacation, they have  been enjoying the beach and the water. 

Dad has shared some lovely photos of the Gulf, the beautiful sunsets, and of course, the kiddos, Travis and Kelly. But then, this morning I received the following photo.

I thought it was someone's puppy that had taken a dip in the water. He looked so pitiful. Then Matthew texted that they thought they were saving someone's dog when they fished it out of the bay with the net. Turns out it was a puppy all right... a coyote puppy! He said the poor little thing was so tired it couldn't even stand up. (Too much dog paddling I guess.) They took it to the shore, where they could see the mother coyote waiting for her babe.

It goes without saying, that this grandmother has been glued to the weather reports this week, and watching Tropical Storm Cindy as it approached the Texas coast. You can see from the skies in the photos above, taken the last couple of days, they have been having pretty good weather. And Cindy veered East! (I do believe in miracles.)

Peace, love, and sunny skies,
Marilyn

Friday, May 26, 2017

When will WE ever learn?

Memorial Day again. Will we ever commemorate a Memorial Day when there are no wars being fought that place our service men and women in harm's way? We keep praying for that day to come. It hasn't yet.

I've written about my late father, Jarvis Moragne, and his military service in World War II and Korea several times. Recently I have been going through a lot of family memorabilia while doing genealogical research, and I ran across a paper that had apparently been in my mother's scrapbooks, which passed down to me at her death. From the wording, I believe this must have been given to military personnel at Fort Sam Houston where my dad was stationed during the Korean conflict. This was typewritten, then run off on a mimeograph machine. (You youngsters probably never heard of one of those!)

INDIVIDUAL ACTION AIR BURST OF ATOMIC BOMB

BEFORE BURST

Image result for atomic bomb explosionIf Air Alert or General Quarters is sounded TAKE PRESCRIBED ACTION. The best defense against an "A" bomb is the same as against HE bombs. (I guess that HE stands for high explosive bombs. Correct me if I'm wrong.)

DURING AND AFTER BURST

Take cover, unless under other attack, and stay for 10 seconds after explosion or until heavy debris has stopped falling.

Underground shelters, ships, basements, and slit trenches give good protection. Lie close to wall out of line from possible flying debris. Keep head covered and avoid exposure of bare skin. Never stand in open. Fall flat if no protection is available.

RESUME DUTIES, if able.
HELP OTHERS.
DON'T PANIC AND DON'T SPREAD RUMORS.

Remember the large casualties in Japan resulted from failure to provide air raid warning and from lack of organization.

EFFECTS OF AIR BURST OF ATOMIC BOMB

  • Sudden shock -- Shock pressure from burst not enough to kill. Flying debris causes almost all injuries.
  • FLASH HEAT - Burns on exposed skin occur out to two miles. Light-colored clothes or any shielding substance afford protection. Keep your shirt on.
        Flash heat starts forest and brush fires. Many fires started by stoves,         short-circuits, etc. Broken power lines on ships start electrical fires.
        (Fight fires in normal manner.)
  • FLASH RADIATION - 50% of radiation occurs in the first second. 80% in the first 10 seconds, all in first 90 seconds. Fall or dive fast to place as much material as possible between you and blast. In most cases if you are not sounded (sic) or burned you need not worry about radiation.
  • LINGERING RADIATION - (from deposited bomb material) - So small it is not a hazard - disregard it.
Bombs will probably be exploded right in the air. Surface or sub-surface may reduce blast and heat effects and increase lingering radiation. (This is serious, but can be handled by proper care. Most ships or vehicles can avoid by maneuvering.)
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As I was reading and typing the above, I became more and more amazed at the efforts to downplay the results of an atomic bomb blast. If, as I suspect, it was written during the Korean conflict, surely by then they knew the effects suffered by the Japanese people during and after Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Please read the ongoing study about the survivors of these blasts here: The Health Effects of Atom Bomb My children all were taught the "duck and cover" techniques in case of a bomb attack when they were in elementary school. Can you imagine getting today's kids to do this?
As a side note, a first cousin of my dad developed/produced the electromagnetic process that made the first atomic bomb possible. (Not something we are particularly proud of, except he was brilliant.) Of course, he was at the Los Alamos site witnessing the initial testing. He lost his own sight a few years after those tests.

The hydrogen - or thermonuclear bomb is one thousand times stronger than an atomic bomb. How can any country even think about loosing such devastation on the world?

As we take time over the Memorial Day weekend to honor the soldiers around the world who have lost their lives in service to their countries, let's also take a little time to sing along with the following...


May peace begin with me... and you...and you...and you. We need it now more than ever.

Marilyn

Wednesday, April 26, 2017

Our Humpty Dumpty Government


(Vintage Uncle Sam Humpty Dumpty Doll)

 Humpty Dumpty sat on a wall.
Humpty Dumpty had a great fall.
All of our Congress,
Women and Men,
Couldn't put Humpty together again!

This is for those of you who have been observant -- and even those who have not been -- of what the current administration, with the complicity of the current Republican/Conservative-controlled Congress, has been up to lately. These are only some of the things.

Update: The list I had posted here has been removed. I guess I didn't give proper credit, and I cannot locate the original. Here is a site that will help you locate any of the over 4,000 Bills and Resolutions currently before Congress: Bills and Resolutions

This morning, POTUS signed an executive order to review any national monument created since 1996. This will turn over at least 100,000 acres of federal land to the states involved. According to the president, he wishes these lands be turned back, ultimately freeing them for development and economic uses, i.e., drilling, mining, grazing, etc. “...some of these areas were put off limits for traditional uses, like farming, ranching, timber harvest, mining, oil and gas exploration, fishing, and motorized recreation....” The Washington Post

One can check the news almost hourly and find another example of the attempts to dismantle and/or completely destroy many of our treasured institutions, laws, and civil rights, as well as placing individuals in charge of them who have no experience or ability in managing them.

It is understood that the 2018 elections are influencing many in Congress. But the main culprits are the big money donors who threaten to withdraw their backing if their needs are not met. If the 15% Corporate Tax bill that the president requested passes, we will see even more of our freedoms disappear, as more cuts will be necessary to make up for the lost tax revenues.

Totalitarianism is an arrangement of state power in which the ruling elite control the conditions of political and social existence while subverting the authority of individuals.

If any of you have not read The Handmaid's Tale by Margaret Atwood, or seen the 1990 movie by the same name, I urge you to watch the upcoming TV series by the same name. Season 1 starts today on Hulu. It's a tale of what life would be like (especially for women) in the future under a fundamentalist, theocratic regime. It gives one chills to think that this is where we are headed if those in charge of our government today have their way.
(PicMonkey Collage)
Here's praying that POTUS doesn't get so obsessed with his new-found "power" that he decides to order a military strike on North Korea without first getting the approval of Congress. He didn't ask before bombing Syria. 

The only way to start to put Humpty back together again is to begin by voting out of office in 2018 some of the Congressional culprits who are guilty of being accomplices to the current administration.

Peace and Hope for our future,
Marilyn

Monday, April 24, 2017

MOSCOW IN THE SUMMER

(Wikipedia - Public Domain)
Today I read an interesting article about Chernobyl years after the nuclear reactor meltdown. As the "adventurers" who were the subject of the article The Lights Come Back on in Chernobyl were Polish, and a former classmate lives part-time in Poland, I forwarded the article to him. The following are emails he sent to me in response.
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Professor C. Denson Hill, PhD (Affectionately known to classmates as Denny):

"It was, and still is, a sad story. I think that tomatoes grown there, shortly after the disaster, glowed in the dark. Don't know if they still do.

The (Chernobyl) meltdown was totally caused by 'cowboy' type Russian engineers, who ignored normal required safety procedures, and tried to manually manipulate the reactor, and they screwed up...human error, not the breakdown of the reactor per se.

The story of how it happened, and how it was strictly a homemade disaster, was explained to me when I was in Moscow in the summer of 1992."

(Of course, I had to ask Denny what he was doing in Moscow.)

"I spent the summer in Moscow because I was supposed to be on an exchange program between the USA National Academy of Sciences and the Soviet National Academy of Sciences.

I was visiting the Steklov Mathematical Institute in Moscow. There is also one in Saint Petersburg (former Leningrad). But in 1992 they were in an old building with creaky wooden parquet floors. Since then, they have moved to a new modern building, but I have never been there or seen it.

It was a funny story: you apply for this program, and nothing happens for a year or more...so you forget about it. Then suddenly you get notice from Washington that you have been accepted, and they want you to go...in order to maintain 'business as usual'.

Explanation of how and why it was strange, and why they wanted 'business as usual':

1.) Under normal circumstances, it had always been that the USA paid only your round trip plane ticket, and the Russians were supposed to pay your room and board for the duration. Your itinerary was determined by them...this week you give a seminar in Moscow, next week they send you to Leningrad, the following week, fly you to Novosibirsk, or you take trains to some other place for seminars, etc.

In other words, you are essentially their prisoner (in a friendly way) and they decide who and where and when you talk to people in your field of research. They put you up in Moscow in the 'Academic Hotel' and you can eat out in numerous restaurants, i.e., life sort of as normal there.

What happened in my case is that between the time I applied for the exchange program, and the time I was selected for it, the Soviet Union collapsed (on December 25, 1991)! As was explained over the phone to me, by some official in Washington DC, at the National Academy of Sciences, since there was no longer a Soviet Union, it meant I was on an exchange program between the USA Academy, and the void set. The treaty agreement still existed on paper between the two academies, but the one on the Russian side had ceased to exist. So the US guys were begging me to go, just to show the Russians that they wanted 'business as usual' as far as normal scientific exchanges are concerned.

The Russians were also begging me to come, for the same reasons. Neither side wanted scientific exchanges to stop just because the Soviet Union no longer existed. Yeltsin was nominally in power, but of course the emerging new Russia was actually being run by the KGB, renamed FSB (Federal Security Service of the Russian Federation).
(Kremlin -Credit: AP/Misha Japaridze)
Trouble was that the Russians were out of money, the Russian Academy was totally broke, prices in Moscow had gone up, and they did not have the rubles to pay for my hotel room, or for train, or plane trips, etc. So if I went there, I would be totally free, and not have to travel around according to any itinerary fixed by them. Also, you could not get into restaurants because they had been taken over by the Russian Mafia, and they would not let you in, claiming the whole restaurant was booked up, when it was clearly empty. Also the price for a mafia to kill someone was around only $400. Taxis were too dangerous to use, because the drivers would just take you someplace and rob or beat or kill you. Supermarkets were empty...yes, empty! Bare shelves.

(Moscow supermarket)

You were supposed to declare any money at the airport, when you arrived, but my Russian friends told me that in no circumstances should I declare more than $300 on the required form at the airport. (Had to be less than the $400 above.) And no big bills, too dangerous...only single $1s, $5s or maybe a few $10s. So I had around $2,000 in a giant wad stuffed in my underwear, in small bills. Never needed it...it was there just for any emergency. I lied on the form at the airport, saying I had only $250. (The monthly salary then for a famous Russian Academician was only $20.)
But I have gotten ahead of the story...

2.) As I was finding out some of the above, before making a decision, I had this funny conversation over the phone with the guys in Washington: I asked them how safe they thought it would be, if I did in fact decide to go there. Their answer was: 'we cannot give an update, because our U.S. Academy representative in Moscow was mugged last night, is in the hospital, and we have not been able to contact him to see how he is doing'.

3.) So after numerous emails with the Russian side, finally I said I would go if the Russians would satisfy these 3 conditions:

    (a.) Someone I personally know would pick me up at the airport, and at the end of my stay someone I know would drive me to the airport...so as to avoid being immediately robbed upon arrival, or upon departure by the taxi mafia.
   (b) They would find me an apartment to live in, so I did not have to stay a single night in a hotel.
   (c) Such apartment would have cooking facilities, so I would not have to eat a single time in a restaurant."

(As DENNY had said the supermarkets were bare, I subsequently asked him where he got anything to cook!)

"I took, as checked luggage, an old fashioned 'trunk', or 'foot locker' heavily stuffed with pasta, sauce, parmesan cheese, peanut butter, cans of tuna, favorite coffee and tea, etc. Enough to survive any emergency...slowly used it up over the summer.

There were 3 (actually 4) different ways to try to buy any food item. Consider trying to buy tomatoes, for example:

1.  Supermarket. Probably no tomatoes, or maybe some rotten and stinking ones, or strange white ones that might glow in the dark...but they (if they happened to exist) were very cheap.

2.  Chechens selling perfect blemish-free tomatoes from card tables set up on street corners near the last metro stop. The most beautiful tomatoes you have ever seen, and at a sort of reasonable price, but to be avoided because they are very heavily laden with DDT.

3.  Hard Currency Shops. You had to pay in dollars. That is where those one dollar, or five dollar bills became handy. Veggies and stuff from Sweden, or some other Scandinavian country. Much higher prices, decent stuff, and with a few blemishes and insect bites, showing it was OK to eat. This is where I got most of my routine stuff.

4.  From the garden of somebody's dacha (Russian country house or cottage): Here you get real homegrown heritage type tomatoes, better than in any supermarket here. Everybody with access to a dacha has a garden, and they grow their own veggies during the warm season. And they usually produce more than they can eat, so they pass them around to their friends. These are by far the best ones.

Now change the above story to any other type of fruit or vegetable."
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"The Russians satisfied the three conditions I laid out and paid me 100 rubles per day as a per diem. (Then 100 rubles was our 75 cents!) That was all they could afford. But it turned out to be enough since the apartment was free (it was the apartment of the sister of some mathematician, and the sister was in the countryside dacha for the summer). So I lived like a king on not much more that 75 cents per day. The whole summer, I never took a taxi by myself, but went on buses and the metro often. And did not eat a single time at a restaurant (only in the canteen for lunch at Steklov Institute of Mathematics, where a full three-course lunch cost me about 16 cents).

For the first month or so I was paranoid about being robbed, mugged, beaten, etc. But eventually I realized I was being monitored by those KGB guys in the black car that followed me everywhere, and they did not want simple common criminals to mess me up and create an international incident. Remember, they wanted to demonstrate 'business as usual'.

I hung out often at the Irish pub on Arbat Street, and spent most of my time trying to learn Russian with a Russian teacher, but now I still cannot speak the language."
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It may sound like DENNY was being melodramatic when he spoke of the Russian "mafia taxis", however, a little research turned up the following 1992 article. Notes from the Underworld It is rather lengthy, so here is an excerpt to prove he was right in being cautious:

"MOSCOW -- Visitors who have finally made it through customs at Moscow's international airport are channeled toward a narrow doorway that opens to their first encounter with organized crime, Russian-style.

Two lines of black-leather-jacketed men press in from either side, forming a sort of human chute. They are taxi drivers.
(from the Russian LiveJournal)
They lean in close, seeking likely-looking fares among the emerging passengers, still disoriented by the scruffiness, the noise, the dim lighting and the apparent chaos of the airport known as Sheremetyevo-2.

'Taxi? Taxi?'

Overwhelming, insistent, they seem to be everywhere. But the appearance of disorder is deceiving.

The airport taxi drivers form one of the mafias that flourish in Russia today. They are a band -- of bandits, some would say -- with their own rules, their own hierarchy, their own sense of honor."
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(I asked Denny if he would go there today if he were invited.)

"It is completely safe to go there now; probably less dangerous than New Orleans, or parts of Houston.

But, I am not sure why, I have no desire to ever set foot inside that country again. I've seen all the main museums, churches, sites, etc. in Moscow and St Petersburg, so I don't need to go there again...although I would like to be again in that room in the Hermitage (St. Petersburg) where they have 27 or 28 Rembrandts. (When I was there, the Intourist guide gave us only 15 minutes in that room! I was pissed.)

Besides, now that in my declining years, I have invested in buying apartment(s) in another country, I really need to spend time there, because who knows how long one can still travel?"
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Denny and I attended high school in a very small West Texas town. His life in the past 60 years belies that fact. He's a renowned mathematician and Professor of Mathematics at Stony Brook University in New York. He's quite the cosmopolitan... traveling to Europe when school is not in session. When he is not collaborating with other mathematicians on a paper somewhere in Europe, he spends time in Warsaw, where he has two apartments (flats) in an historical 600-year-old building that overlooks the New Town Market Square, and is on the UNESCO list of protected world sites. 
Image result for new town market square warsaw
(His flats are on the floor with the open balcony doors.)

As you can tell, Denny is quite interesting. He has many tales to tell, and lots of friends from his travels who lead interesting lives as well. I look forward to his emails. 

Imagine meeting a Hell's Angel in Warsaw! Everyone has lots of questions when they learn Denny is from Texas -- mostly about our politics. Sometimes to his dismay! Our politics are often the subject of ridicule. 



Until next time..
Peace and love,
Marilyn